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“In this issue, you’ll fit the right-side door to your DeLorean… Ensure that the wire for the door lights passes freely through the opening at the top of the door.”

This issue is a near duplicate of Issue 70, just with the opposite door. This was also one of the really hard to find issues as it was out of stock for a very long time.



There is an undocumented part included with this issue: a small black plastic rectangle. This is the other door block to hold this door open.

Materials: Everything in this issue is metal.


  • Drive Time: Model Instructions
  • Production Diary: Hill Valley Festival
  • A Time Traveler’s Guide: Marty’s Clint Eastwood Alias


Fitting the Door

Step 1

Retrieve the door assembly from the previous issue and turn it over. Place the Hinge Panel into position as shown, making sure the wires come out through this small gap:

Step 2

Secure the Hinge Panel to the door with four (4) NM screws,

This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:

Steps 3-4

Retrieve the body assembly (last used in Issue 70). Fit the Hydraulic Arm into this small recess on the passenger side roof, as shown:

Step 5

Secure the arm to the body using the Arm Plate and one (1) QM screw, as shown.

Like the first door, my QM screw would not go all the way in, so I cut about 1 mm off the end of it. Then, it went in fine:

Step 6

Feed the plug/wire from the door assembly through this square hole at the center of the body assembly roof:

Step 7

Take the door assembly and place it into position on the body assembly, aligning the hinges like we did on the first door:

Step 8

If the Hinge holes line up, secure both sides from inside the body with two (2) QM screws.

NOTE: It is pretty well known that these hinges are delicate and the QM screws can be too long. You can either cut 1 mm off each QM screw, or use a couple of your spare KM screws (I had two KM spares at this point). However, unlike on my first door, I used the KM screws again and BOTH of them snapped off:

Therefore, I had to order a replacement of this issue. When it finally arrived I noticed something odd. My stockpile of older QM screws and the ones supplied with this issue are DIFFERENT. The QM screws with this issue are shorter and have different heads. Maybe that’s why it was taking so long to get these issues out to people; they had to change the screws. Perhaps that is why this particular issue was so hard to find for so long.

Regardless, I removed the old useless Hinge Panel and threw it out. Since this is the point in my build where I started using 3-in-One Oil on all my metal screws, I took the replacement Hinge Panel and pre-threaded the hinge screws with the supplied shorter QM screws. I had no problems so far:

This time, the door attached to the body just fine. I did not over-tighten these as it feels like they could strip with too much force:

Step 9

Turn the entire body over again and secure the free end of the Hydraulic Arm to the Hinge Panel with one (1) QM screw, as shown:

This step is the last of the issue, but we have this odd plastic block left over. Do not discard this! This is the other door block as described in Issue 70:

Slide it into this gap to hold the door open as needed:

With the second door now installed, I can install the other custom headliner cover from Bill Will Green as in Issue 70:


Both of the DeLorean’s door are mounted! I wish those KM screws hadn’t broken as it took a while to get a replacement issue. Still, the car is looking better and better with each issue.

Next Up

 Issue 75 – Body: Central Roof Panel, Power Coil Brackets

10 thoughts on “ISSUE 74”

  1. I think you are right about the shorter screws. I received the parts for issue 74 yesterday as they were not included with the instruction magazine. EM skipped over shipping the complete left door parts too. I have been using WD-40 for the screws with good results. Haven’t got the upper bulkhead or circuit board either. Love your posts so far.

    1. 5 cm when fully extended, 3.5 cm when compressed. It’s 3 mm wide in the middle, the head is 4 mm wide, which holds the screw.

  2. I hope your rite about Eaglemoss changing the screws. The reason I found your site was because I was having a lot of problems with the screws being too long. I started building around December 2018 and a lot of the parts on suspension, chassis, and engine were all loose.

    After I found your site witch is amazing. I tore it all apart, painted, and detailed everything. I haven been pre-threading and cutting them down the screws as needed. I will also try some 3-in-1.

    Thanks again for the excellent site. I hope Eaglemoss fixes the distribution issue soon I recived up to issue 70 this month. I’m at a stand still waiting on some mods from Mike Lane so I do have some time to wait but I done now if I will wait 5 months.

    1. Thanks for the kind words! I actually think the 3-in-One Oil makes such a huge difference that I have gone back to the first metal screws of each of my build sites and mentioned it there. It really is night and day!

  3. Thank you for the advice on using the QM screws! I lubed them up and used them on both of my doors and I have two perfectly working doors with no broken hinges! It was very helpful!

  4. Thanks a bunch for the heads up on the plastic block. I have been trying to talk to some one in design about the door
    not staying open, They sent new door kits. What a cheap fix !!!! They could have left out the top catches all together. Now i can finish putting the model back together and add all the other parts that i have .

  5. Thanks for the comment on the KM screws. When I put it all together in issue 91, the right door snapped loose (better than off) and the QM screw didn’t hold down anymore. With the KM screw it is all fine now. Without that piece of information, I would have had to wait a long time with aggravation until the new part would com in.
    Love your input and solutions, invaluable!

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