Return to the BUILD
“In this issue you can fit the seat belts and more cables by following these step-by-step instructions.”
- Drive Time: Model Instructions
- Production Diary: Recreating a Scene From the First Film
- A Time Traveler’s Guide: Wild Gunman Arcade Game
Seat Belts and Cables
Secure Seat Belt (49A) to the floor with one (1) IP screw.
The Seat Belt parts look the same, but are marked with ‘L’ and ‘R’. We should be using the one marked ‘L’ here:
On the other side, secure Seat Belt (49B marked with the ‘R’) into place with one (1) IP screw:
Pass Cables (49D, 49E, and 49F) along the right side of the Centre Console and through this hole under the Dashboard.
There are three black cables with grey plugs on the ends. Two of them have smaller plugs (49C) and one has a larger plug (49D below, center). Be sure you use the larger plug cable 49D for this step!
Gather all of the Cables (49D, 49E, and 49F) up and lay them out (make sure the plug ends are on the same side):
I chose to tape the ends (without the plugs) together to make this step easier:
Feed this ‘taped end’ up through the center hole under the right side of the Dashboard. Only feed enough cable through to allow you to secure it in the following step. The other ends of these cables need to attach to the rear bulkhead, so the more wire you can leave free for that, the better:
Place the ends of all of the free Cables here between these two posts and secure a 2-hole Tab (49J) into place over them with one (1) AP screw and one (1) GP screw.
AP screws are thinner than GP screws, and the 2-hole Tabs have a larger hole on one end. The screws match these holes, so place them correctly:
Pass the two Cables (49C) along the right side of the Centre Console and out the same hole as the previous step.
These are the black cables with the smaller grey plugs on them. The ends without the plugs go through the dashboard hole:
Secure the ends of these Cables with the 1-hole Tab (49I) and one (1) AP screw.
To help get these secured, I placed half a Glue Dot into the space between the posts. These are removable sticky adhesive dots:
For me, they act as a third hand to hold parts in place while I work:
As I am not using the supplied Cable Ties (see above) and I am adding the Purple Cable Clamps from Darren Gurney, this step is a little different. First, I laid out the correct cables:
Next, I slid three Purple Cable Clamps from Darren Gurney over the twisted cable. The direction these clamps go onto the wires is important. In the real car, there are three clamps along this cable in the real car. Two near the TFC switch and one at the rear bulkhead:
Finally, I taped the two cables together (at the end without the black plug) to make it easier to feed them under the dash:
Position the ends of the cables with no connectors along the left side of the dash.
The real way these wires are routed in The ‘A’ Car is a little different from these instructions. They should route under the TRW Keypad:
We can’t be truly faithful here to the real car, but we can adapt. Therefore, I passed the taped end behind the keypad in prep for the Mod Zone at the bottom of this page:
Pass the ends of the cables through the center hole under the Dashboard.
You can see I have already added another Glue Dot here to help me hold these cables in place and keep them from slipping out once secured:
Collect all the free ends of these Cables and fit them between the posts. Secure a 2-hole Tab (49J) over them with one (1) AP screw on the left and one (1) GP screw on the right, as shown:
Once these were secured at this end, I tucked the other end under the TRW Keypad, super glued the cable clamps in place, and mini tied them:
Place the free ends of the Cables on the passenger side of the Dashboard and fit them between these two posts. Secure a 2-hole Tab (49J) over them with one (1) AP screw on the left and one (1) GP screw on the right, as shown:
Place the free ends of the Cables on the driver side of the Dashboard and fit them between these two posts. Secure a 2-hole Tab (49J) over them with one (1) AP screw on the left and one (1) GP screw on the right, as shown:
While that completes this issue, there is one very visible piece missing from the Eaglemoss model… the flexible ducting (CAT ducting)! You can see it in the images above, running along the cables we installed.
In order to recreate the CAT ducting from the real car, I found an old black USB cable and wrapped it in a spiral pattern with Tamiya 2mm Masking Tape. I left only a tiny bit of space between the tape and wrapped about 18 inches (450 mm) of it so it can be cut and used in different places in the model:
Next, I airbrushed the cable with Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow acrylic paint. I chose this color because the real color is kind of a white/tan. Once this layer dried, I shot a coat of Tamiya XF-86 Flat Clear over top to seal the color:
Then, after letting it dry and removing the masking tape, I added the small band of orange electrical tape about 1″ (25 mm) from the end:
Finally, I pushed this end under the TRW Keypad, and mini tied it to the existing cables:
The second clamp does not stay glued in place well, so I will have to fix that. I may use some tiny eyeglass screws to secure them for real. But, I am more than satisfied with how my impromptu CAT ducting came out! I have not cut the USB cable yet, as I am waiting on the rear bulkhead to get it cut to the right length.
More wiring! These last two issues were only a taste. There is plenty more to come. But, we survived! All of the non-wiring parts in this issue are plastic, but the Seat Belt straps are woven nylon.
Running Total of screws used so far: 426
Issue 50 – Interior: Seat (Left)