Return to the BUILD
“In this issue you will continue the assembly of the center console by following these step-by-step instructions.”
This is going to be another long one, with multiple Mod Zones!
Materials: Everything non-electronic in this issue is plastic.
- Drive Time: Model Instructions
- Production Diary: Recreating the Enchantment Under the Sea Dance
- A Time Traveler’s Guide: Alternative 1985 Lorraine
The Time Circuits
Fit the posts of the Time Circuits onto the Time Circuits Box.
These posts are a screw hole and pin, therefore the Time Circuits will only fit one way.
Fun Fact: On The ‘A’ Car, the Time Circuit Box is a hobby electronics enclosure from Radio Shack and the red/green lenses are Dialco Dialight lenses:
Secure these together from underneath with one (1) AP screw:
Place the Cover over the Time Circuits, fitting the tabs into the matching slots.
My Cover wouldn’t sit straight and I needed to open up the slots a bit in the Time Circuits with a hobby knife to make it fit better:
Insert the thin end of the Handle into the hole at the end of the Cover.
This requires a little force to get the Handle to go all the way in. If you have trouble, make sure the hole in the Cover lines up with the hole in the Time Circuits. Once this is in, it should spin freely.
Fun Fact: On The ‘A’ Car, this part was created from a Dayton drum switch and a pair of car battery terminal cleaners for the handle.
Press the Reset Button into hole at the rear of the Time Circuits Box as shown:
This is how the Time Circuits Box looks on The ‘A’ Car:
Back in April 2019, Rallbart (Rafel Lin) sent me his amazing TFC Switch Mod. Now, it is time to install it! The switch supplied with the model is not terrible, but the details of Rallbart’s 3D-printed version are superior in almost every way. Take a look at them side by side:
Installing his TFC Switch Mod is quite simple. I just removed the screw from Step 2, replaced it with the new one, and presto. Just don’t tighten the screw too much. While it looks fantastic, it is quite delicate, so take care of it!
Before I started this step, I took out my trusty multimeter and checked the function of all six switches. I set the multimeter to continuity mode and held one probe on the exposed metal on the plug for the ground wire (green). I then touched the other probe to the exposed metal on the plug for every other wire and pressed the matching button to ensure all of them worked. They all worked correctly:
Align the two holes of the Bracket to the back of the Button Board:
Secure the Button Board to the Bracket from the other side with two (2) AP screws:
IMPORTANT! A lot of other builders have experienced electrical problems with their DeLorean models. One of the major culprits is one of these screws and how close it is to these solder points. It can quite easily short out the contacts (I checked with my multimeter and the screw was definitely touching the contact on the right).
I headed down to the hardware store and picked up some #2 fiber washers (.032″ thick, #2 ID, 0.25″ OD) to put under each screw. I found a similar style of insulating washer on Amazon. Nylon washers would work too; we just need them to be non-conductive. I had to trim the washers a little bit with sprue cutters to fit better, but this should keep the screws from causing any trouble:
Before I started these steps, I took a Metallic Silver Sharpie and painted the ends of the buttons:
Fit the Button Board into the underside of the Time Circuit Box as shown and secure with two (2) AP screws:
Remove the backing paper from the Plate, fit it over the switch buttons, and stick it to the Time Circuits Box.
It is worth noting here that I did not remove the backing paper or attach this Plate (see Mod Zone below). I am including these images for those who do not mod this part of their build and for those who want to know which button is which number:
Once again, it is time to install another part of Decal Set I from Mike Lane. These decals improve the look of the Time Circuits Box:
Installation is simple, remove the stock numbered Plate and replace it with this decal. Do not put the decal on the Plate. Here are the stock and modified parts side by side. The difference is massive!
Here is this side of the real Time Circuits Box from The ‘A’ Car. Mike did a fabulous job here:
The same sheet from Decal Set I also has a sticker for the other side of the Time Circuits Box as well. This one is much more accurate:
Here is a shot of the real thing in The ‘A’ Car. You can see how Mike has made this look much more realistic!
Pass the connector (plug) end of the Button Board down through this rectangular hole in the Centre Console (from the previous issue):
Keep feeding the cable through the hole until the Time Circuit Box is sitting flush on the console. Then, secure it from underneath with two (2) FP screws:
Fit the Power Supply to the rear of the Centre Console, as shown.
Fun Fact: On The ‘A’ Car, this was created from a Clare Electroseal power supply. This model has the correct manufacturing label!
There are many other builders out there that cut the top off of this Power Supply and fill it with electronic bits and even lights. I even had the internal guts mod from Darren Gurney. However, I decided that I wouldn’t see it easily once the model is complete so I left it alone. But, I do have a decent picture of the real guts from The ‘A’ Car if any of my visitors are interested in modding their boxes:
Secure the Power Supply to the console with two (2) FP screws:
As we are moving on to more detailed parts of the build, there seems to be a lot of modding to do! I am so grateful for the mod community for producing these improvements. The stock parts are not bad, but there is always room for improvement.
Issue 44 – Dashboard: Dashboard, Knee Pads
12 thoughts on “ISSUE 43”
Looks great.Were does the gray kabel from the gold box outside goes to?
If you mean the grey cable on the side, it loops back into the box, like this:
I am near this stage. Been following your build (as well as your Ecto1 build) and taking in a lot of your (scratchbuild) mod-tips.
but hey, if I understand correctly, you did not use internal guts mod for the power-supply box?
If I pay for shipping, can I have it?
Thx anyway, but I decided to go scratchbuild
I found out today that EM screwed up the coloring of the center column. The center column should be the same color as the dashboard. The seats also need to be darker than the light grey that they are shipped in. The closest color that I could find, I’m sure there are more, is Vallejo Black Grey RLM66, https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/product/hobby/model-air-en/rlm66-black-grey-71055/ In addition, EM did not account for the aluminum sheet that the 1-6 switch and gold box are mounted on. If this level of detail is something you want to include, this mod is offered by Adrian Dinca, https://www.shapeways.com/shops/3dynamics. Adrian has gone to great trouble to create a model that is as movie accurate as possible and his mods are for sale to the public.
ugh wish i read this before being at Issue 110… i think i have that screw shorting issue
Note for others who may be seeking help like I was. My switch cable was wired in reverse of what’s pictured here. The green ground wire was the red wire for me. After much trial and error getting the problem down to the switches after disassembling my build and using a multimeter, I found I just need to reverse the plug upside down and it worked like a champ. Hope that saves someone else a few hours in the future.
Is there a link to the TFC switch mod? Tried to hit him up but no luck yet… looks amazing!
He does it one off, so he doesn’t have a site. I do have a page for it though HERE.
On the circuit board instead of the two screws would a couple drops of super glue work or would that do something to the circuit board
Glue should work, just make sure it does not get into the switches. And if the glue lets go after the model is complete, it will not be easy to fix.