ISSUE 39

 Return to the BUILD


“With this issue, you will affix more wires to the chassis by following these step-by-step instructions. Keep piece 39A in a safe place as you will need it in [the next issue].”

 

Contents


Parts

NOTE: The parts list below has a misprint from Eaglemoss. Wire 9 is actually Wire 6

Materials: All of the non-electrical parts in this issue are plastic.

Magazine

  • Drive Time: Model Instructions
  • Lights, Camera, Action: Work starts on Back to the Future Part II
  • A Time Traveler’s Guide: Donald Fullilove as Goldie Wilson

Build


The Chassis and Wiring

The Chassis Plate will not be used in this issue, so put it aside until the next issue:

Step 1

Lay Wire 6 (Black/White), Wire 10 (Blue/Green), Wire 11 (Green/Red) and Wire 23 (Red/Blue) between the Rear Left Wheel Arch and the engine, fitting them down between these posts.

I will mention it again: Eaglemoss misprinted the parts list for this issue – the part shown as Wire 9 is actually Wire 6. As in the previous issue, the ends with the black plugs go towards the center of the car. Also, like before, I chose to mark the wires with the 2 inch lengths from Step 2 and Step 5 first as it helps with wire placement:

Step 2

Make sure that you leave approximately 2 inches (5 cm) of each wire extending past these posts:

I did this with the previous step.

Step 3

Secure these four sets of wires into place using three of the Tabs. These Tabs have a pin and a hole. The pin fits in the post with the larger hole. Secure each Tab with one (1) KM screw.

This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:

Step 4

Position Wire 22 (Red/Blue) between the Rear Right Wheel Arch and the engine, fitting it down between these posts.

Once again, the end with the black plug go towards the center of the car:

Step 5

Make sure that you leave approximately 2 inches (5 cm) of wire extending past these posts:

I did this with Step 1.

Step 6

Like before, secure these wires into place using three of the Tabs and three (3) KM screws:

Thoughts


We do not see a misprint very often in this build, and I can see how a 9 and a 6 could be flipped, but we worked through it. There are a few wires we installed in this issue that are going to be replaced when I install The EL Light Mod kit from Model Modz, but I will tackle them when I receive the kit.

Next Up


 Issue 40 – Interior: Panel (Firewall), Pedals, Brake Switch/Spring/Wiring

2 thoughts on “ISSUE 39”

  1. Question: Though I am not at this stage of the build yet (I’m only on Build 7) – BUT I do have both the Power Mod and the EL Light Mod. That said, would it not make more since to install the EL Mod at the same time the Fuel Tank is installed? And not install EM wires #19 and 22, just to make things easier?
    The way I read this: all we’re doing is connecting Black EL Wire Mod to EM Wire 23. (What is EM Wire 19 used for?)
    And as I read Step 8: We feed the Red heat sink Wire Mod into the fuel tank and connect it to the matching plug of the EL Mode converter – which if I follow this correctly, is the only available connection from the Inverter?

    1. I try to write my pages to cover both cases – those who mod and those who don’t. Some stock wiring was removed later on when I got the Power Mod. I tried to cover both situations on my dedicated Power Mod and EL Wire pages.

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