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“In this issue you will assemble more of the chassis and add wiring by following these step-by-step instructions.”

This issue marks the beginning of the crazy zoo that will be the internal wiring of our DeLorean. To help with this, I have put together a Wiring page with details on each wire used in the build including number, color, connected button, and purpose.

Contents

Parts

Materials: All of the non-electronic parts in this issue are plastic.

Magazine

• Drive Time: Model Instructions
• Making the McFlys: 2015 – Prosthetic Makeup and Clever Characterization
• A Time Traveler’s Guide: Leopold Stokowski influences Doc Brown

Build

The Chassis and Wiring

NOTE: Included in this issue are four Brackets (jack stands) that can support the chassis while you can work on it, preventing stress on the wheels and suspension. They should be Step 1 in this issue, but are Step 10, so let’s do that one first.

Step 10 (Bumped to the top)

Use the four Brackets to support the chassis.

These blocks will ease the load on the wheel/suspension components as you continue the build, but using them is up to you. They will definitely come in handy if you decide to change out the DeLorean wheels for the Whitewalls or the Railroad Wheels later on:

Step 1

Secure the Plate (heatshield) to the rear of the chassis (in front of the engine) with three (3) NM screws.

This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:

Step 2

Run Wire 9 (Blue/White) and Wire 19 (Red/Blue) from the left front of the chassis, through these posts, along the center chassis, then pass them over to the right side.

The ends with the black plugs will eventually connect to the main circuit board behind the passenger seat and therefore go towards the center of the car. Also, it seems that some versions of this build have the wire colors and numbers mixed up. On my build though, they are all correct. If your wires colors/numbers do not match the instructions, just follow the colors and ignore the numbers as you complete these steps.

I completed Step 3 first to mark the wires at 3 inches. This will help indicate where the wires should sit during this step:

Step 3

Make sure that you leave approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) of each wire extending past these posts.

I did this with the previous step.

Step 4

Secure these two sets of wires into place using two of the Tabs. These Tabs have a pin and a hole. The pin fits in the post with the larger hole. Secure each Tab with two (2) KM screws, one for each:

Step 5

Secure these wires to the center of the chassis using two of the Clear Stickers:

Step 6

Run Wire 8 (Red/White) and Wire 12 (Red/Yellow) from the right front of the chassis, through these posts, and along the center chassis.

Again, it helps to mark the cables (from the next step) first. Remember, the ends with the black plugs go towards the center of the car:

Step 7

Make sure that you leave approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) of each wire extending past these posts.

We did this with the previous step.

Step 8

Secure these two sets of wires into place using two of the Tabs and two (2) KM screws, one for each:

Step 9

Secure these wires to the center of the chassis using two of the Clear Stickers.

Since I have The Power Mod from Model Modz installed, I ran these new wires under the power cable:

This held the front wires, so I only needed one Clear Sticker at the rear:

Step 10

Use the four Brackets to support the chassis.

I did this step at the top of the issue.

Thoughts

Any wiring can be tricky, but so far this issue was not too bad. I had heard of so many other builders encountering mixed wire numbers and colors that I was expecting the same. To my surprise, all of my wires so far have been accurate. In the next issues, we start on the interior!

Next Up

 Issue 39 – Interior: Chassis Plate (Floorboard), Rear Wiring