Return to the BUILD
“In this issue you will build the silencer, fit it to the engine and then fix the engine to the chassis frame by following these step-by-step instructions.”
This is one of those milestone issues: we are going to install the engine into the chassis! Along the way, we will install the silencer (muffler), axles, and the rear flux box mounts.
Materials: Other than the rubber Boots, everything else is plastic.
- Drive Time: Model Instructions
- We’re Going Back! Part III – The conclusion of the 25th anniversary fan celebration
- A Time Traveler’s Guide: Steven Spielberg
As before, I painted the heads of all exposed chassis screws with Tamiya XF-56 Metallic Grey in advance.
Assembling The Engine
Insert one of the Exhaust Pipes into the side of the Silencer Rear and secure with one (1) AP screw.
These Exhaust Pipes have a keyed position to align them correctly:
Secure the other Exhaust Pipe the same way with one (1) AP screw:
Secure the Silencer Front to the Silencer Rear with two (2) FP screws:
Fix the silencer assembly to the rear of the engine, inserting the exhaust front pipe into the hole.
Be sure to seat the silencer assembly’s post into the ring of the metal bracket we installed in the last issue, as shown:
Secure the left side of the silencer to the engine with one (1) AP screw:
Tighten one (1) AM screw into the hole in the right side of the Silencer.
This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:
Insert the pins of the Connector into both the Silencer and the Engine Side Bracket we installed back in Issue 23.
This is one of those pieces that will eventually fall out and cause people to ask what the heck it is from. Instead, use super glue to keep it in place:
Just for posterity, here is a picture of the engine so far:
Place the engine into the chassis frame as shown:
We haven’t seen the chassis since back in Issue 15. Welcome back, we have missed you!
Turn the entire chassis over and secure the engine into place with three (3) DM screws:
Be very careful here as parts of the engine stick up and can be broken off. I propped the engine intake runners up on my camera lens cap to be safe:
Slide one of the Boots to the center of the Front Left Track Rod assembly (from Issue 12), then fit it into the back of the left wheel assembly and fasten to the transmission axle mount with one (1) EP screw.
The Boots have holes in both ends, but one is larger than the other. The larger hole goes towards the transmission:
Slide the Boot along the rod towards the transmission, covering the screw:
Repeat the last few steps with the Front Right Track Rod assembly built back in Issue 14:
Secure the Connector Left to the left end of the silencer with one (1) AP screw:
Secure the Connector Right to the right end of the silencer with one (1) AP screw:
And, with both Connectors installed:
This is exciting! We brought a lot of different parts from various earlier issues together. To give a quick weight update, the chassis now weighs just over 4 lbs. (1.8 kg). It is definitely gaining some serious mass. And, that is without any metal in this issue’s parts.
Issue 27 – Horn, Radiator Mounts/Fans/Shroud
3 thoughts on “ISSUE 26”
Did Eaglemoss change the engine. In some pictures on other sites there is a squarish chassis plate on the underside of the end of the transmission. What am I missing here?
You may be referring to the fact that Eaglemoss originally shipped out automatic transmissions. This was fixed later on to be the correct manual gearbox.
This was my last pack from Eaglemoss. For some reason, the holes are to bottom of the engine did not fully align with the holes in the chassis. So I screwed the 2 by the Y in and left the other to rest loose on the crossmember.