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“With this issue… add more detailed components to the emergency time circuits.”
NOTE: All of the pictures in this issue are after I installed the Hood Box Upgrade Kit from Mike Lane.
Contents
Parts
Materials: Everything non-electrical is plastic here except for the ‘metal mesh’ (140G).
Magazine
- Drive Time: Model Instructions
- Zemeckis on TV: Medal of Honor (2018)
- A Time Traveler’s Guide: Rehydrated Pizza
Build
Time Circuit Box
Step 1
Fit the keyed post of Time Circuit Component 140D (cable support) into the keyed hole of Time Circuit Component 140E (cable support base), as shown:
Step 2
Fit the locating pin on the bottom of this ‘cable support base’ into the matching alignment hole at this location on top of Time Circuit Component 140A (power supply), as shown here:
Step 3
Secure the ‘cable support’ into place from below with one (1) AP screw:
Step 4
Slide the tab of Time Circuit Component 140F (straight connector) into this side slot of the ‘power supply’.
There does not appear to be a up or down on this part; it fits either way:
Step 5
Secure the ‘straight connector’ into place from below with one (1) AP screw:
Step 6
Push Time Circuit Component 140B (round gauge) fully onto this post of the ‘power supply’.
There is nothing to align this to, so get it as straight as you can. Once it is seated, it is very difficult to rotate:
Step 7
Push the pins of Time Circuit Component 140C (square gauge) into the matching holes at this location on the ‘power supply’.
One pin should be larger than the other, so this only fits one way:
Step 8
Fit this ‘power supply’ assembly to the inside of your Time Circuit Box, as shown.
If this does not sit completely flush, you may have it backwards and need to turn it around:
Step 9
Secure the ‘power supply’ into place from below with two (2) AP screws:
Step 10
Fit the end of one Wire into this hole on top of the ‘power supply’.
These Wires can be pushed in far enough that they hold themselves in place:
Bend the Wire over and slide the other end into this closest hole of the ‘small terminal block’, as shown:
Step 11
Fit the end of another Wire into this hole on side of the ‘power supply’:
Bend this Wire over and slide the other end into this middle hole of the ‘small terminal block’, as shown:
Step 12
Fit the end of the last Wire into this nearby hole on the side of the ‘power supply’:
Bend this Wire over and slide the other end into this farthest hole of the ‘small terminal block’, as shown:
With these Wires now installed, I decided to add some bends and clean up their routing a bit. They are bits of real wire, so they hold their shape:
Step 13
Push the posts of the two Time Circuit Component 140M (red insulators) into these holes on top of the LED Switch box, as shown:
Step 14
In the same way, push the posts of the two Time Circuit Component 140L (black insulators) into these holes on top of the LED Switch box.
A keen eye will notice I also colored the ‘nuts’ on top of these insulators with my Metallic Silver Sharpie:
You will notice in the following steps that I am continuing to ‘color’ the tips of my vacuum tube bases with my Metallic Sharpies. I started doing this back in Issue 137 to give the insides of the tubes something more interesting to see.
Steps 15-16
Fit the pin of a Time Circuit Component 140K (tube base) up through this hole of the Time Circuit Component 140G (metal mesh), then push a Time Circuit Component 140I (smooth tube) down onto the pin of the ‘tube base’ as shown:
You may have to cut these parts from sprues as we have done before. Note the curved mounting flange marked below, this is the end to start on:
Step 17
Repeat the previous step to build an identical vacuum tube in the next hole over:
Steps 18-20
Fit the pins of the last two ‘tube bases’ up through the remaining holes of the ‘metal mesh’, then push a Time Circuit Component 140H (pointed tube) down onto the each pin of the ‘tube bases’ as shown.
We’ve done this so many times, we should be pros by now:
Step 21
Fit the ‘metal mesh’ assembly to this location inside your Time Circuit Box and secure it down with two (2) QP screws.
You may find that you need to tuck the non-curved flange end ‘under’ the LED Switch box, as seen here:
Thoughts
We are now halfway done with our ‘Big Chip’ assembly and I just love it! It is quickly becoming one of my favorite parts of the DeLorean build. and is making up for the lackluster track build issues sprinkled in between.
Next Up
Issue 141 – Display: Railroad Tie/Ends, Connectors