Return to the BUILD
“Add the filters and manifolds, then fix the engine sides in place by following these step-by-step instructions.”
In this issue, we continue to build up the engine block. I am not sure how, but Eaglemoss incorrectly identified some parts here. On the actual DeLorean, part 18C is the oil filter, and part 18D is the oil pressure sensor. The real fuel filter is mounted to the frame of the car and is not included in this model. For clarity purposes, I will refer to them by the names Eaglemoss used, but note the differences.
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Fitting The Filters
Fasten the Fuel Filter (Oil Filter) to the Engine Side Right with one (1) AP screw:
Thanks to Rail-Road Models UK, I had a wet transfer decal for the Oil Filter. Wet transfers should be cut out, soaked in warm water for a few seconds, then carefully applied. There are many videos online explaining in great detail on how these are applied, so I won’t do that here:
Fasten the Oil Filter (Oil Pressure Sensor) to the Engine Side Right with one (1) AP screw:
Fitting The Manifolds
Attach the Manifold Right (the one with the hole in the middle) to the Engine Side Right with two (2) AP screws:
Attach the Manifold Left to the Engine Side Left with two (2) AP screws.
This is the same as the other side, so here is the finished step:
Fitting The Engine Sides
Fix Engine Side Right into position on the engine bottom completed in Issue 17 with two (2) DM screws.
So, there I was, pre-threading my screws and I twisted a screw head right off. This has happened to others while building the engine, and I was hoping to avoid it. So, this is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal as I was not yet using it at this point in my build:
Be sure to seat the upper pin of the Engine Right Side into the little hole on Engine Front. Here is the part installed with just one screw for now:
Fix Engine Side Left to the engine bottom with two (2) DM screws.
Just like the right side, but this side went in just fine:
Once both sides were on, I put a small drop of Super Glue down the missing screw hole, replaced the broken screw head, and held in place until it dried:
The Engine Back
Fix the Engine Back in place with two (2) DM screws.
These also seemed to go in OK. Even being careful, things can happen. These are internal screws, so there was not too much to worry about:
For an engineering project like this model, I am surprised they could screw up the identification of the Oil Filter. The screw breaking off though, which others have experienced, is less than satisfactory. Thankfully, this is a part we will never see. As for the materials, the two Engine Sides and the Engine Back are metal, but the rest of the parts are plastic.
Running Total of screws used so far: 155
Issue 19 – Engine: Upper Engine Casing, Water Pump/Pipes, Auxiliary Air Pipe