ISSUE 18

 Return to the BUILD


“Add the filters and manifolds, then fix the engine sides in place by following these step-by-step instructions.”

In this issue, we continue to build up the engine block. I am not sure how, but Eaglemoss incorrectly identified some parts here. On the actual DeLorean, part 18C is the oil filter, and part 18D is the oil pressure sensor. The real fuel filter is mounted to the frame of the car and is not included in this model. For clarity purposes, I will refer to them by the names Eaglemoss used, but note the differences.

Contents


Parts

Magazine

  • Drive Time: Model Instructions
  • Production Diary: Back to School, Marty’s Girlfriend, and Huey Lewis
  • Just Wild About Harry: Harry Waters Jr. as Marvin Berry
  • A Time Traveler’s Guide: Invading Peabody’s Barn

Build


Fitting The Filters

Step 1

Fasten the Fuel Filter (Oil Filter) to the Engine Side Right with one (1) AP screw:

Thanks to Rail-Road Models UK, I had a wet transfer decal for the Oil Filter. Wet transfers should be cut out, soaked in warm water for a few seconds, then carefully applied. There are many videos online explaining in great detail on how these are applied, so I won’t do that here:

Step 2

Fasten the Oil Filter (Oil Pressure Sensor) to the Engine Side Right with one (1) AP screw:

Fitting The Manifolds

Step 1

Attach the Manifold Right (the one with the hole in the middle) to the Engine Side Right with two (2) AP screws:

Step 2

Attach the Manifold Left to the Engine Side Left with two (2) AP screws.

This is the same as the other side, so here is the finished step:

Fitting The Engine Sides

Step 1

Fix Engine Side Right into position on the engine bottom completed in Issue 17 with two (2) DM screws.

So, there I was, pre-threading my screws and I twisted a screw head right off. This has happened to others while building the engine, and I was hoping to avoid it. So, this is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal as I was not yet using it at this point in my build:

Be sure to seat the upper pin of the Engine Right Side into the little hole on Engine Front. Here is the part installed with just one screw for now:

Step 2

Fix Engine Side Left to the engine bottom with two (2) DM screws.

Just like the right side, but this side went in just fine:

Once both sides were on, I put a small drop of Super Glue down the missing screw hole, replaced the broken screw head, and held in place until it dried:

The Engine Back

Step 1

Fix the Engine Back in place with two (2) DM screws.

These also seemed to go in OK. Even being careful, things can happen. These are internal screws, so there was not too much to worry about:

Thoughts


For an engineering project like this model, I am surprised they could screw up the identification of the Oil Filter. The screw breaking off though, which others have experienced, is less than satisfactory. Thankfully, this is a part we will never see. As for the materials, the two Engine Sides and the Engine Back are metal, but the rest of the parts are plastic.

Running Total of screws used so far: 155

Next Up


 Issue 19 – Engine: Upper Engine Casing, Water Pump/Pipes, Auxiliary Air Pipe

10 thoughts on “ISSUE 18”

  1. What does it mean to “pre-thread” a screw? I’m sorry, but English is my second language and I have no idea what it means.

    1. It means to drive each metal screw into its hole before actually attaching anything. The screw should be harder metal than the rest of the car and should ‘tap’ the hole for you. Then, when you go to actually attach pieces, these screws should go in a lot easier. Another suggestion I have seen from others is to use Vaseline on the threads. I don’t recommend WD-40 (as others have tried) as it loves to attract dust and dirt.

  2. I just finished this set of 4 issues. I didn’t break a screw head, I had just replaced my PH1 bit with a new one, so that may have helped. I also sanded the mold parting lines on the manifolds and starter bits. Painted the starter flat black, the mounting tab Testors Metalizer Aluminum and manifolds silver metallic. I found the perfect match for painting the screw heads. Testors Metalizer Aluminum is perfect, other than it is flat instead of gloss. If you overcoat the Metalizer with gloss, its identical.

  3. I received two of the right side exhaust manifolds instead of a left and right side (both had the middle hole). If I had used the other right side manifold on the left, the screw hole for the exhaust piping would be facing down instead of up which of course wouldnt work. So I had to call Eaglemoss and order another issue 18. Hopefully that one will have the correct left side manifold included or at least two of the same left sides lol.

  4. MarvelPhx
    I also bought the RailRoad decal sets. I see you added an awesome oil one on 18. I havent built much yet. Do you know of any other issues to use it one?

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