Return to the BUILD
“Put together these important engine components for the DeLorean by following these step-by-step instructions.”
IMPORTANT: Before we get started, take note that the instructions incorrectly mentions DP screws. The included DM screws are correct. Read my page about The Screws if it might help.
Fun Fact: In an original DeLorean DMC-12, the typical engine was a 130HP Peugeot-Renault-Volvo (PRV) 2.85L V6. The engine sounds in the movies were not from the PRV, but instead added in post production from the V8 engine in a Porsche 928 with holes drilled in the muffler. Your ears can definitely tell the difference.
Materials: Everything in this issue is made of metal except for the Starter and Sump Pan (which are plastic).
- Drive Time: Model Instructions
- Production Diary: The Enchantment Under the Sea Dance
- Delight In The Details: Intriguing Set Design
- A Time Traveler’s Guide: Doc Brown’s Timepieces
Fitting the Sump Pan
Insert the posts in the top of the Sump Pan into the holes of the Engine Bottom.
The Sump Pan can fit both ways around, so be sure you have it the right way, as pictured here:
Secure the Sump Pan to the Engine Bottom with two (2) FP screws:
Continuing The Engine Assembly
Place the Transmission Case Rear (bell housing) onto the rear of the transmission assembled in Issue 16 and secure with two (2) DP screws.
Remember to use the supplied DM screws here:
Place the Engine Front into the rear of the Transmission Case Rear and tighten three (3) DP screws into the holes.
As before, remember to use the supplied DM screws here:
Assembling And Fitting The Starter
Insert the two pins of Starter 2 into Starter 1.
I made sure these were correctly aligned and just snapped them together. Take note of the pin (circled in the image) used to align this in the next step:
Because the AP screw in this step is visible and I was already modding the wheels with Tamiya X-32 Titanium Silver acrylic paint, I gave this screw a quick coat as well.
Place the starter assembly up against the front of the engine and secure with one (1) AP screw:
Fitting The Engine Bottom
Place the engine bottom underneath the front of the engine and secure with two (2) JM screws.
This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:
The engine has really begun to take shape and it is going to have some serious weight to it. So far, everything has gone together pretty smoothly. I am hoping this continues, as others have had problems with some of the engine issues.
Issue 18 – Engine: Left/Right/Rear Engine Casing, Oil Filter/Pressure Sensor, Exhaust Manifolds
2 thoughts on “ISSUE 17”
Hey do you know if the engine for this model is sposed to be the origanal Deloreans Volvo engine or the Porsche 928? I ask cuz I was just looking through a book I have about the Delorean time machine and it says that because of the weight of the stainless steel body plus all the components for time travel Doc had to replace the already underpowered V6 Volvo engine with a V8 Porsche 928. Maybe that’s the story behind the change of engine sound used in the movie like you mentioned before.
I know this dont really have anything to do with building the model but I thought ide share a interesting peice of info with another BTTF fan. And if your woundering about the book I have it the HAYNES DELOREAN TIME MACHINE OWNERS WORKSHOP MANUAL by Bob Gale and Joe Walser.
Srry for such a long post. Feel free to share this info on your main building site. 🙂
The engine in our Eaglemoss model is the same PRV engine that is still in the ‘A’ car today. However, the audio team on the films did use the sound from a Porsche engine and dubbed over the stock engine because it sounded better. The authors of that book had some fun and said Doc changed it to the Porsche V8 long after the trilogy ended, but it is not accurate to our model or the actual ‘A’ car.