Return to the BUILD
“The parts of your DeLorean you receive with this stage are all associated with mounting or supporting the wheels, and can be assembled following the step-by-step instructions.”
In other words, we get to build the left rear suspension and driveshaft.
- Drive Time: Model Instructions
- Production Diary: Robert Zemeckis’ Difficult Decision
- What Eric Did Next: After Back To The Future
- A Time Traveler’s Guide: Marty’s Improvised Skateboard
As I have done up to this point for any parts related to the frame, I painted the Rear Left Radius Arm and Bracket with Tamiya Fine Surface Primer in Light Grey. Then, after masking off the magnet, the Rear Left Hub Carrier was painted with Tamiya X-32 Titanium Silver. The Front Left Track Rod (Driveshaft) is black on every DeLorean I have seen, so I painted this one with Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black. Finally, all of the screw heads received a coat of Tamiya XF-56 Metallic Grey. Note: the image below incorrectly shows the Bracket from Issue 14, whoops!
Fitting The Rear Left Wheel Hub And Suspension
Fit the Rear Left Hub Carrier into the end of the Rear Left Radius Arm, align the holes, and secure with two (CM) screws.
This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal. Even then, the Rear Left Hub Carrier remained a little loose. But, no worries, it will be held in place by the rest of the suspension:
Insert the end of the Link into the Bracket and secure with one (1) EM screw.
One end of the Link has a raised portion that fits into the Bracket. Others had issues with this not seating all the way, but after pre-threading the screw, it went all the way in fine. I left this a little loose to let the suspension move a bit:
Secure the Bracket to the side of the frame with one (1) BM screw.
There is a pin on the Bracket that aligned it into the Frame here. Others have had to super glue this into place, but pre-threading the hole made mine sit firm and flush without any problems:
Place the hole at the end of the Rear Left Radius Arm at the side of the frame and tighten one (1) EM screw into the post hole.
This attachment was a little different. Even after pre-threading the screw, it sat tight and flush but still did not keep the Rear Left Radius Arm from wobbling around a bit. I could have used a small metal washer under the screw to fix it, but the rest of the suspension will hold this in place, so I left it alone. It needs to be able to pivot anyhow:
Place the end of the Link between the two uprights of the Rear Left Hub Carrier and pass one (1) HM screw through the holes.
The screw here passed through the Link without issue, as the threading was done on the Rear Left Hub Carrier. Once it was nice and tight, I backed it out a little to allow the suspension to move:
Place the two pins of the Rear Brake Caliper through the Rear Brake Disc and secure with one (1) AP screw:
Insert one (1) IM screw through the hole at the bottom of the Rear Shock Assembly:
Place the Rear Brake Disc into the Rear Left Hub Carrier and raise the Rod up into the bottom. Insert the IM screw (with the Rear Shock Assembly) through the Rear Left Hub Carrier, Rear Brake Disc, and Rod. Tighten into place.
I made sure the Rear Shock Assembly was facing up towards the Frame here, but still ran into a snag. Once the screw was tight, I could not slide the Spring from the next step onto the shock at all. That is what the image below shows. I had to remove this screw and complete steps 10 and 11 first. Then return to this step and insert the screw. After tightening, I backed this screw out a little to let the suspension move and allow the wheel to fold down:
Lower the Spring onto the Rear Shock Assembly. Insert the top of the Rear Shock Assembly into the hole in the frame above and tighten one (1) EM screw into the hole.
I had to squeeze the suspension up to get the shock to pop through the frame hole and then start the screw:
The Front Left Track Rod
Place the Flange onto the end of the Front Left Track Rod and tighten one (1) BM screw into the end:
The bolt detail on the Flange should face towards the Front Left Track Rod. The Flange remained a little loose, but is not a problem as it will be fixed into place later:
Push the Boot onto the Front Left Track Rod and up against the Flange. Keep this assembly in a safe place for an upcoming issue.
The Boot has one hole bigger than the other, this is the end that goes up against the Flange. We will use this driveshaft again in Issue 26:
That issue had a lot of steps and a few hurdles, but we are one step closer to having a rolling chassis. Other than the rubber Boot, and the plastic Flange and Rear Brake Caliper, everything else in this issue is metal.
Running Total of screws used so far: 109
Issue 13 – Wheels: Rear Tire/Wheel (Single)