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“In this issue, you will fit the power coil grilles over the LEDs and filaments on the left side of your DeLorean.”
NOTE: I am installing the EL Light Mod from Model Modz as I build my model. You may notice some differences from the stock LED/Filament lighting elements in this issue. I will mention any notable changes.
Contents
Parts
Materials: The Power Coils are plastic, but the Grilles are photo-etched metal.
Magazine
- Drive Time: Model Instructions
- A Time Traveler’s Guide: George DiCenzo
Build
Power Coils
Step 1
Before you fit any of the Power Coil parts, be sure that your Filaments/EL wire on the left rear of the car are positioned correctly in the brackets. Take care not to crush any of the Filaments/EL wire as you continue this issue.
Here, I have painter’s tape holding my EL wires in the correct position:
Step 2
Fit Power Coil (107A) into the brackets along the top of the Filaments/EL wire.
The two pegs on the top end should fit into the Junction Box, as shown:
Step 3
Press Power Coil (107B) into the end of Power Coil (107A) and fit it into the brackets, as shown.
There is a pin on 107B that fits into a matching hole of 107A to hold these together:
Step 4
Carefully remove Grille (107E) from the photo-etched plate and fit it into place, as shown.
The Grilles arrive on photo-etched metal sheet. Each piece has an engraved part number near it. Simply give these a little twist to remove them from the sheet one at a time as you need them:
Secure Grille (107E) onto the bracket at these holes with two (2) AP screws.
While it is personal preference, I first thought the black screws would look wrong. So, I was going to use chrome/silver eyeglasses screws for all of these flux band attachment screws. However, I noticed that the real ‘A’ car used black hex bolts to attach the bands, so I am OK with using the stock black screws on my build. You should do what you think is best for your model:
When installing these Grilles, take note that each of them fit best in only one way. If it feels wrong, flip the Grille over and try again:
Step 5
Continue to attach this Grille using two (2) IP screws here:
Carefully bend the Grille down and attach it to the Power Coil using two (2) more IP screws at these locations:
Step 6
Carefully remove Grille (107F) from the photo-etched plate and fit it into place as shown. Secure this Grille into place at these holes with two (2) AP screws.
I tucked this under the previous Grille, but you can put it on top of it if you want:
Continue to attach this Grille to the Power Coil below with two (2) IP screws:
Step 7
Ensure your lighting Filaments (or EL wires) are seated nicely into the slots of these three brackets:
Step 8
Push Power Coil (107C) into these brackets over the Filaments/EL wires, as shown.
There is a pin on 107C that fits into a matching hole of 107B to hold these together:
Step 9
Push Power Coil (107D) into the remaining brackets, slotting the end posts into the Support Bar, as shown:
There is a pin on 107D that fits into a matching hole of 107C to hold these together:
The rear Power Coils should look like this now:
Step 10
Carefully remove Grille (107H) from the photo-etched plate and fit it into place as shown. Secure this Grille to the Power Coil below at these holes with two (2) IP screws:
Steps 11-12
Carefully remove Grille (107G) from the photo-etched plate and fit it into place as shown. Secure this Grille into place at these outer holes with four (4) AP screws…
… and at these inner holes with four (4) IP screws:
Steps 13-14
Carefully remove Grille (107I) from the photo-etched plate and fit it into place as shown. Secure this Grille into place at these holes with two (2) AP screws.
This Grille is not straight. There is a slight bend to it, so make sure you test fit it before attaching the screws:
Step 15
Carefully bend and secure this Grille into place at these holes with two (2) more AP screws:
Step 16
Secure this Grille into place at these holes with two (2) IP screws:
Step 17
Finish bending and securing this Grille into place at these holes with four (4) more IP screws.
I did not want to flip the car over again, so I placed it at the edge of the table, sat on the floor, and screwed these in from below!
Thoughts
That was a heck of a lot of screws! But, we now have the left rear corner of the car finished. We will do this again on the right side next.
Next Up
Issue 108 – Body: Rear Power Coils/Grilles (Right)
Hi, really helpful step-by-step instructions by the way.
What I have noticed is that on the A-Car every (screw or rivet) that is used in the black brackets under the Power Coils are silver. So on my car I have painted the AP Screws with Tamiya Chrome Silver X-11, but left the IP Screws Black. It looks pretty nice too.
A BIG thanks.
Awesome, I bet that looks amazing!