Return to the BUILD

“The parts of the DeLorean received with the stage are the frame and its fixing screws.”

I have been looking forward to this issue! The Frame has arrived and it’s huge and heavy. The parts we have been holding on to from Issues 03, 05, 06, 07, 08, and 09 can finally all come together.



Materials: The only part in this issue, the Frame, is metal.


Phillips Head Screwdriver (appears to be size #0 or 2.5mm)


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As I have done up to this point in preparation for this issue, I painted the Frame itself with Tamiya Fine Surface Primer in Light Grey. Also, you may notice some brass colored items in this issue I painted back in Issue 07.

Connecting The Wheel Hubs

Steps 1-2

Attach the left front suspension assembly (from Issue 05) to the underside of the Frame using two (2) BM screws.

This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:

Steps 3-4

Attach the right front suspension assembly (from Issue 06) to the underside of the Frame using two (2) BM screws:

With both suspension assemblies attached, it should look like this:

The Front Plate And Steering

Step 1

Attach the Front Plate (from Issue 07) to the end of the Frame using three (3) AM screws:

Step 2

Slide the Pinion and Pull Rod of the Steering Rack (from Issue 07) up through the Front Plate and attach to the Frame with two (2) GM screws.

I made sure these two screws were all the way in, as loose screws here can cause the Pinion/Pull Rod to bind up on the holes in the Front Plate. However, I backed them out just a bit to allow the pieces to move:

Step 3

Flip the Frame over and attach the tie rods ends of the Steering Rack to the Left/Right Front Tie Head (steering knuckle/spindle) with two (2) DM screws.

These screws go in really tight, so I pre-threaded the holes and supported the Brake Disc piece that the Steering Rack attaches to (I had heard that others have broken this off). Pre-threading makes actual assembly much easier. I tightened these all the way, then backed off a bit to allow movement. Do be aware that these will may back themselves out as you handle the model as I had to tighten them again later in the build.

Step 4

Place the Bottom Plate (from Issue 08) into position:

Step 5

Then turn it all over again and attach it to the Front Plate and Frame using four (4) DM screws:

The Anti-Roll Bar

Step 1

Turn it all over again, then slide the ends of the Anti-Roll Bar (from Issue 08) into the holes on the Lower Links. Attach to the Bottom Plate with four (4) AP screws:

The Wheels

Steps 1-2

Attach a front wheel assembly (from Issue 03 and Issue 09) to each Brake Disc the using one (1) GM screw.

If you previously pushed the Hub (DMC center cap) into the wheels, you can poke them out with the screwdriver. Try not to lose the washer! The GM screw goes through the washer, then the wheel, then into the Brake Disc. Others have had issues with these wheels being wobbly, but I was able to tighten them enough to barely turn and not wobble at all. I don’t need the wheels to freely turn as this will be a static model.

Finally, I recommend to not put the Hubs back in yet since the wheels may loosen as the build continues and getting the Hubs out again is not easy once the wheels are mounted. An even better solution is to replace all your Hubs with Mike Lane’s Magnetic Wheel Caps!


Now we are getting somewhere! With all these bits added, this assembly now weighs about 2 Lbs. (0.9 Kg). Plus, we are starting to get a good idea of how big this model is going to be. There is still a long way to go…

Next Up

  Issue 11 – Suspension: Engine Support, Rear Lower Control Arms

16 thoughts on “ISSUE 10”

  1. I am not too far behind you. I appreciate everything that you’ve written and photographed.
    I have assembled the frame and sub assembled the front suspension. I cut a coil and half out of every spring. I’ve seen the results, and it looks far more accurate. I was wondering why you left the anti roll bar in black, instead of a natural color? Is it black from the factory?

    1. Thank you for the appreciation! I didn’t modify the suspension yet, but I will if needed. I found many photos of real DeLorean chassis and the majority of them had black anti-roll bars. Since the EM version was black, I just left it alone.

      1. I’ve painted the frame with Dupli-color primer. I also primed the outside rims in prep for the aluminum finish. I also am doing the links and rods in aluminum. My left rear hub has the magnet sticking out at an angle. I have no idea how to remedy this, I’ve tried every solvent I can to remove the magnet, but nothing works. I think I’ll just get a replacement, if I can’t find a way.

  2. Hello! First time messaging on this website. I just completed issue 30 and have been enjoying the build so far. I did want to ask if anyone had problems with issue 10?

    When I connected the front tires to the hubs, they appear to be loose compared to the back tires. They seem to wobble even though I tighten the screw as much as possible. Would anybody have any suggestions on how to fix this? Thank you for any assistance you can provide!

    1. My understanding is that the post on the steering knuckle is a little long, so some people have put washers on the post before attaching the wheel. My front wheels are a ‘little’ wobbly, but the car is going to be a heavy static display and not rolling along a surface, so it is OK for me.

      1. Thank you so much for the suggestion! I will give this a try. Mine won’t be rolling either, it’s just an OCD tendency I have.

  3. Long time reader – first time commenter! Has anyone had any issues with their magnets not holding the front wheels up? I really don’t want to disassemble them but I am not sure what can be done. I don’t care about the hover mode – can I just super glue them?

    1. The magnets are not that great. I also will never display it in ‘hover’ mode. You can superglue the two magnets together if you want.

  4. As far as the screws that you said may eventually back themselves out, could a person use something like Loctite to maybe help keep them in place? I mean should a person do that, or not just incase you need to do some kind of repair or something someday?

  5. Last month I didn’t get my monthly issue, I called customer service and they said that they are presently out of issue 10 and won’t ship anything more until they have it? I Know you’ve dealt with situations like this, how long should this take, I hope that they haven’t stoped producing any issues? Thanx

    1. It really is out of Eaglemoss’ hands as the shipping delays and port capacity limitations are affecting everything. It could be a week or a month or more. Patience is valuable at times like this.

    2. Issue 10 has been holding my build up for four months so far. I’ve contacted customer service a couple of times only to get the same answer, unfortunately. While my patience has been starting to wear the tiniest bit thin at this point with the recent announcements of new build ups, there are a few upsides.

      It’s been giving plenty of time for the mods I’ve ordered from Mike Lane and Model Modz to get made and pre-staged for their turn in the build. There’s also the Enterprise build that has been sitting in a box waiting for more attention.

      Starting to get the feeling I’ll have the Enterprise done by the time the next Delorean shipment comes though…

  6. Forgive me if this has already been asked, but when painting that main frame did you undo the screws and remove the two loose pieces that come on either side of that frame?
    Thanx so much for all your guidance.
    Do you know if anyone has done a page like this for the Eaglemoss Ecto1?

    1. I believe you are referring to the shipping ‘bars’ that were attached to the black underbody. I did not paint that at all. The main frame that I did paint grey did not have any bars to remove. As for the Ecto1, I am also building it and have a site for it as well: You can follow all of my builds over at

  7. Hi all, does anyone else’s wheel go beyond the horizontal when in hoover mode? How can I adjust this?



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