Return to the BUILD
“Start building your scale model DeLorean DMC-12 (with modifications) by assembling the rear bumper section and lights, and attaching that iconic ‘OUTATIME’ numberplate.”
This is where it all begins! I was happy to see that Eaglemoss started with one of the most recognizable pieces of the car: the rear bumper.
If you haven’t seen it yet, I recommend reading through my Getting Started page first.
Materials: Here I will describe the materials the supplied parts are made of. All of the screws are metal, so I will not mention them. For instance, in this issue, only the Upper Rear Section is metal, while the rest of the parts are plastic.
- Phillips Head Screwdriver (appears to be size #000 or 1.5mm)
TIP: All of these issue magazines can be digitally downloaded from: https://en-us.eaglemoss.com/delorean-magazines
- Drive Time: Model Instructions
- The Futurist: Bob Gale Interview
- Time Trials: Delorean Design Process
- A History of the Future: Part 1
Introducing The Model
A 4-page color leaflet with photos of the completed model and features
A 3-page foldout with full size color images of the model and the final dimensions:
- 20.7″ Long
- 9.1″ Wide
- 5.6″ Tall (9.6″ with doors open)
A 21″ x 16″ color poster of the model’s parts separated by sections:
- Front Section
- Body & Rear Section
- Door & Side Section
- Timetravel Unit
Attach the Upper Rear Section and Lower Rear Section together with four (4) BP screws.
TIP: In case you need it, I have a full listing of the different screws and which issues they come in on The Screws page.
The Upper Rear Section is solid zinc and has some good heft to it. It really gives you an idea of how big and how heavy this model will be:
Place the Lights panels into the Frame.
Notice the orientation of part 1-H (rear center light):
Slide the assembled tail light Frame tab into the Upper Rear Section.
It is usually easier to do this with both parts upside down so the loose Lights panels do not fall out of the frame.
Attach the tail light Frame to the Upper Rear Section with one (1) BP screw.
The instructions show two screws, but you will only use one for this. Save the other one for the left tail light coming up in Issue 02:
Place the ‘AUG’ and ‘Year’ tags on the Numberplate.
Eaglemoss provides two of each sticker, just in case. A good pair of precision tweezers works wonders here! Unfortunately, the stickers themselves have a terrible sparkle background and are not very legible, especially the ‘AUG’ month decal.
NOTE: I have since updated this license plate with Mike Lane’s Magnetic Licence Plate mod; see my Mod Zone at the end of this issue.
Attach Numberplate to Plate Base with two (2) AP screws:
Attach the Plate Holder to the Plate Base with two (2) AP screws:
Carefully align the tabs and snap the Rear Bumper into the Lower Rear Section.
This Rear Bumper piece is going to be removed again in Issue 92, so you may not want to snap it in at this point if you don’t think you are comfortable with taking it back off.
This is the first of many Mod Zone sections you will find throughout my site. These are custom modifications I chose to add and are not included with the DeLorean build. Right after I started my subscription, I ordered many items from Mike Lane such as his plastic Magnetic Licence Plates. NOTE: This plastic version of the license plates has since been upgraded and replaced by Mike’s Die-cast Licence Plates!
This includes a new detailed OUTATIME plate, futuristic bar code 2015 plate, magnetic stickers, and a removal tool. This mod was installed long after this issue was completed, so here are are the steps to install it:
First, I removed the two (2) AP screws holding the Numberplate in place from The Plate: Step 2 above. This was done without disassembling anything else. Then, I grabbed the bag with the single magnet sticker:
I peeled the backing from the magnetic sticker and stuck it into the recess where the Numberplate used to be:
Then I removed the OUTATIME license plate from the other bag and simply dropped it right into place. Mike had already applied the much clearer registration tag decals to it. And just like that, we are done!
I think this new Mike Lane plate is a major improvement over the original Eaglemoss version. You can actually read the registration tags and it has the four mounting holes printed on it. You can then use the supplied removal tool (a guitar pick) to easily remove the plate and swap in the included 2015 future barcode version if you’d so choose. The detail on these plates is fantastic!
Alternatively, Mike Lane also includes a magnetic option to update the stock plate. He even includes a double set of extra registration tags to swap out the awful Eaglemoss ones. You can see the new tags here along with the original plate (with the original registration tags removed). These new tags are also part of Mike’s Vinyl Stickers Set I, sold separately:
I put the new tags on, then in the bag with the removal tool, I found another magnetic sticker:
I peeled the backing off the magnetic sticker and placed it on the back of the original Numberplate:
Now, you can quickly and painlessly swap between all three license plates as you so choose. All thanks to Mike Lane!
UPDATE Jan 31, 2020: Mike Lane no longer sells the original plastic license plates above. This is because he has upgraded them to the new metal Die-cast Licence Plates! Here is a photo and a link to the install I did after the car was completed:
This completes our first issue! So far, the build seems very straightforward and we are off to a great start. The pieces seem very well made and highly detailed, even down to the DMC logo on the tail light lens. Set these assemblies safely aside for use in the next issue.
Issue 02 – Body: Left Wing (Fender), Left Tail Light