THE WIRING

As with any model build that includes lighting, there is going to be wiring. This Eaglemoss 1:8 scale Back to the Future DeLorean is no different. It actually contains a lot of wiring that has to be tested, managed, and cared for.

A few things to note about wiring the DeLorean:

  • Follow the colors – Eaglemoss has been known to label the wires incorrectly, so follow the colors in the magazines.
  • Polarity matters – LEDs are diodes and will only work with the correct flow of electricity. Be sure to check connection orientation.
  • Don’t pinch – Wires can easily be pinched between two pieces and cause a short, especially metal. Take care during assembly.
  • Seat the plugs – Make sure all connectors are fully seated in their sockets.

Thanks to other builders, I was able to create the table below for managing the wiring in our build.

  • The PIN column refers to the numbered pin on the Main PCB (from Issue 56).
  • The SWITCH column refers to the specific button on the center console switch box (from Issue 43) to turn those lights on/off.
PinColorButtonPurposeSupplied with Issue
1White/White-Left Door - Switch56
2Orange/White-Left Door - Lights56
3Orange/Orange-Right Door - Switch56
4Orange/Black-Right Door - Lights56
5Yellow/Yellow-Brake Pedal Switch40
6Black/White-Brake Lights39
7Blue/Yellow-Overhead Panel Emergency Light56
8Red/White6Headlights38
9Blue/White6Hood Light38
10Blue/Green6Engine Bay Light39
11Green/Red6Rear Lights39
12Red/Yellow6Front Turn Signals38
13Green/Black5Overhead Panel Lights56
14Black/Yellow4Time Circuits Display42
15Green/White4XMAS Tree (SID)59
16Black/Black4Flux Capacitor58
17Yellow/White3Dashboard/Meters45
18Orange/Yellow2Digital Speedometer45
19Red/Blue1Flux Bands - Front38
20Orange/Green1Flux Bands - Roof56
21Orange/Yellow1Reactor Light56
22Red/Blue1Flux Bands - Rear Left39
23Red/Blue1Flux Bands - Rear Right39

22 thoughts on “THE WIRING”

    1. I am not that far into my build, but I think Eaglemoss does provide blue replacement LEDs for the top flux bands later in the build. Could that be what you have?

  1. There are two wires Orange/Yellow mentioned in your table, one at pin 18 and one at pin 21
    is this correct, because that looks confusing to me
    ((I’m not near doing some wiring, but just noticed it))

    1. Yes, they are both the same color, but come from different ends of the car. And, the plugs are printed with numbers to keep them separate.

    2. That is correct. The 18 wire does go to the 88 mph, and 21 does go to the reactor light. You will get in 2 issues so there shouldn’t be confusion.

  2. I noticed in your EL Mod install that the ‘black’ wire from the inverter, that is eventually connected to EM wire #23 has mating up to the ‘red’ wire on the EM wire connector, as shown in your pictures.
    The connector will not allow assembly in the wrong way? Just making sure this is the proper way, thanks.

    1. The red wire on cable #23 leads back to the ground on the EM board, so yes, it is correct. This grounds the EL inverter allowing you to control it via the original button #1 on the TFC box.

      1. Thanks for your reply, that’s what I was hoping for. EM wire coding/colors don’t make any sense and I wanted to make sure.
        Also waiting on Bluetooth control, so no EM 1-6 switch for me!

    1. I believe those are the only lights that work if your 1-6 switches/cable are not working or connected correctly. Did you double check that plug?

  3. my #6 switch doesn’t seem to work, the lights are always on regardless of me hitting the switch.
    I’m assuming the dreaded answer is to split the halves (for the millionth time) and wiggle on the wires to figure out what the deal is? 🙁

    ugh, feel free to delete all my comments, I had it upside down, it’s the #9 wire!

    1. How did you solve the issue with all the lights being on and the switch not turning them off? I’m having the same issue, all lights on, pressing switch buttons does nothing, advice would be greatly appreciated!

      1. I did not have this issue, but it is likely you have a short somewhere. Check all your wiring for any pinched wires that could be damaged and touching the metal frame.

  4. Hood light not coming on, could it be that the lights are in series and not parallel.
    If one doesn’t work or isn’t plugged in that none of them won’t work?
    Reason being theyer all on button #6

  5. I have wires 22 and 23 both blue and red at the rear of the Delorean. Not connected to anything.

    Have I missed something in the build so far. I’ve just completed the dreaded Part 91 by putting the body onto the chassis.

    Got the terrible feeling that may have to be stripped down again!

    Help it’s starting to get Heavy!

    Thanks,

    Marty

    1. Those are expected to be there. They will power the rear lower flux band LEDs on the support bar in Issue 106. 🙂

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