Return to the BUILD
“The parts of your DeLorean you receive with this stage are all associated with mounting or supporting the wheels, and can be assembled following the step-by-step instructions.”
What they really mean is that we get to build the right rear suspension and driveshaft. This is a mirror of Issue 12.
- Drive Time: Model Instructions
- Production Diary: Filming In Bad Weather
- Dressed For Success: Marty’ Wardrobe
- A Time Traveler’s Guide: Rock ‘N’ Roll At The Dance
As I have done up to this point for any parts related to the frame, I painted the Rear Right Radius Arm and Bracket with Tamiya Fine Surface Primer in Light Grey. Then, after masking off the magnet, the Rear Right Hub Carrier was painted with Tamiya X-32 Titanium Silver. The Front Right Track Rod (Driveshaft) is black on every DeLorean I have seen, so I painted this one with Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black. Finally, all of the screw heads got a coat of Tamiya XF-56 Metallic Grey:
Fitting The Rear Right Wheel Hub And Suspension
Fit the Rear Right Hub Carrier into the end of the Rear Right Radius Arm, align the holes, and secure with two (CM) screws:
This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal. And, unlike the left side, the Rear Right Hub Carrier didn’t move at all once these were tightened:
Insert the end of the Link into the Bracket and secure with one (1) EM screw.
One end of the Link has a raised portion that fits into the Bracket. Others had issues with this not seating all the way, but after pre-threading the screw, it went all the way in fine. I left this a little loose to let the suspension move a bit:
Secure the Bracket to the side of the frame with one (1) BM screw:
There is a pin on the Bracket that aligned it into the Frame here. Others have had to super glue this into place, but pre-threading the hole made mine sit firm and flush without any problems:
Place the hole at the end of the Rear Right Radius Arm at the side of the frame and tighten one (1) EM screw into the post hole:
Unlike the left side, after pre-threading the screw, this screw kept the Rear Right Radius Arm in place perfectly. This does need to pivot, so I did not tighten it all the way:
Place the end of the Link between the two uprights of the Rear Right Hub Carrier and pass one (1) HM screw through the holes:
The screw here passed through the Link without issue, as the threading was done on the Rear Right Hub Carrier. Once it was nice and tight, I backed it out a little to allow the suspension to move:
Place the two pins of the Rear Brake Caliper through the Rear Brake Disc and secure with one (1) AP screw:
Insert one (1) IM screw through the hole at the bottom of the Rear Shock Assembly:
Place the Rear Brake Disc into the Rear Right Hub Carrier and raise the Rod up into the bottom. Insert the IM screw (with the Rear Shock Assembly) through the Rear Right Hub Carrier, Rear Brake Disc, and Rod. Tighten into place.
I made sure the Rear Shock Assembly was facing up towards the Frame here. I learned from the problems during the left side in Issue 12, so I skipped ahead and did steps 10 and 11 here first. It is a pain (literally) to squeeze the Rear Shock Assembly/Spring up into the Frame so the screw can be added:
Then I returned to this step and inserted the screw. After tightening, I backed this screw out a little to let the suspension move and allow the wheel to fold down:
Lower the Spring onto the Rear Shock Assembly. Insert the top of the Rear Shock Assembly into the hole in the frame above and tighten one (1) EM screw into the hole.
I completed this step before steps 8 and 9, see above. But, I did run into the known trouble with the magnet popping out of the brake disc:
I had heard of this problem from others, so it was not unexpected. I removed it from the magnet in the Right Rear Hub Carrier, added a drop of super glue into the hole in the Rear Brake Disc, and dropped it back in the hole. Fixed!
The Front Right Track Rod
Place the Flange onto the end of the Front Right Track Rod and tighten one (1) BM screw into the end:
The bolt detail on the Flange should face towards the Front Right Track Rod. The Flange remained a little loose, but is not a problem as it will be fixed into place later:
Push the Boot onto the Front Right Track Rod and up against the Flange. Keep this assembly in a safe place for an upcoming issue.
The Boot has one hole bigger than the other, this is end that goes up against the Flange. We will use this driveshaft again in Issue 26:
With this completion of this issue, the main frame/chassis is now finished! Other than the rubber Boot, and plastic Flange and Rear Brake Caliper, everything else in this issue is metal. I will weigh it again once we get the last wheel in the next issue.
Running Total of screws used so far: 123
Issue 15 – Wheels: Rear Tire/Wheel (Single)